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Longboard surf session at Meia Praia
Every Monday evening I do a Surf theory presentation at the local surf/pizza place in town. Yesterday was the 19th edition. The presentation is about the history of surfing, rules in the water, how waves get created ánd different kind of equipment… Every Monday I take my buddy Sam (a.k.a. Bob’s Boards) as an example of being a super good surfer, and friend, but that our styles of surfing and personality are really different:
Sam is calm, I’mmm nót really, Sam is a style master, I’mmm not really. I enjoy a big heavy close out barrel on the head, Sammm…not really. I try to get my fins out the water, Sam tries to get his whole board burried in the wave.
Meia praia surf forecast for the day
So there you go; Two friends one dude who is designed to be a longboarder and one who’s much more comfortable with a toothpick.
And than there’s a 0.4 meter wave with a soft offshore breeze on the forecast on our backyard called Meia Praia. Some time ago Sam suggested I should do a longboard clinic one day.
Sam and his wife Ana borrowed me one of their precious longboards called ” The Black Betty”, gave me some last minute tips and off I went. No wetsuit, leash wrapped around my calf (instead of my ankle) on a massive board with the most pretty little waves a surfer can ask for. It wasn’t the first time I paddled a Longboard but I felt like an absolute kook! Saying that, I also enjoyed being in the water in a complete different way. Of course I made the mistake multiple times to pull in a notmake-able tiny barrel and got beat up by a 9ft+ board but hey’ at least I tried?
I got tangled in the leash cross stepping, I fell over the side trying to turn, I even nosedived one time,but what a blast it was. ”Like being on a mini-Holiday”. Good friends around, super weather and out of my comfort zone. Absolutely stoked. check out their website if it made you curious on these boards: http://www.bobs-boards.com/
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