Often people ask me; ”wouldn’t you want to go to Indo?” My reply is always a bit the same; I would love to surf Indo waves and I would love to meet the local people but the fact is, there’s more than enough surfers in the water there without me already.
I think I rather stay here!
This morning we got our first ever surf guide guest from Indo. Telling me the same thing; waves are perfect but super busy.
He was lucky, the swell was small but with absolutely no wind the surf could be good. When we arrived at the beach our new friend really didn’t know if he could believe his eyes. True; it wasn’t Indo- but with no wind and not one person on the beach or in the water we had the whole place for ourselves.
He told me he almost didn’t sleep last night because he was so excited. After a quick ”how to put on a wetsuit-tutorial” we were ready for the surf. The waves were much more powerful than we anticipated on at first and our new buddy got a good introduction with the 16 degrees Portuguese water with a massive wipe-out on his first wave. ”Oh my God!- I think my head is going to explode!!” héhé…first time surf in a wetsuit ánd first time brainfreeze.
We all three got some really nice waves and surfed until we just couldn’t anymore. Stoked!!!