Surf has been up!
We have been very lucky with the waves the last few weeks. Summer had a bit of a slow start and with that we got more waves than we could handle. Surfing every day like it was our last, to come back home and look on the forecast to see even more waves coming our direction!
On one of the many sessions I got a little interference with another surfer. I dropped in a beauty of a wave, didn’t see the guy paddling towards me, he sort of freeked-out and paddles the wrong way (*I think!) and our boards hit. My JS- super light, high performance with thin glassing was no match against his BIC plastic and my session got cut short with a big damage as a reminder first to look before you drop. With the waves still firing and my friend Sam aka Bob very busy, I had a problem. ( http://www.bobs-boards.com/ who just got blessed with a newborn baby, (well, his wife…but he’s also very busy with it)-
That problem got solved in about 30 minutes when I walked into http://www.lagossurfcenter.com/ where Marco told me it’s good to try sometimes a different piece of equipment and let me choose a board in his shop to try for the next day:
I went for a 5’10 27. something liter firewire board. A step up from what I normally surf (5’6-23liters) but the waves would also be of some consequence and it would suit the conditions well.
A little nervous having such an expensive board under my belly with waves that could make an end to any board if on the wrong time at the wrong place, but also very stoked I paddled out. The board seemed to be floating a bit more on top of the water and was very easy to paddle in. Also I felt my turns were rounder and longer, but this also could have been the bigger fins. Anyway, I do not own close to 8 hundred euro’s to spend on a board and if I did I’m not sure if this would be the one. But stoked as a kid in a candy store. I really advise everyone who reads this; If you have the chance to try a different board from time to time, do it!
There had to be an end to all this madness. Windguru showed us signs of Northerly wind coming back and Magicseaweed sadly agreed on this. No swell, strong wind as far the eyes can see.
It can’t and won’t be epic always and even if it’s crap and onshore, we’ll find the best crap onshore wave for that day!