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Cordoama showing the thin line between epic and crazy

empty wave cordoama

Epic or Crazy?

With no guests to guide me and my surf buddy were on a mission. The forecast showed some very promising period and wave hight. We decided to go all or nothing and check out Cordoama.

cordoama surf heavy
The surf looked very heavy.

With about 8 lines of whitewater and massive sets coming in I was pretty skeptic. Especially when we met some friends who walked off the beach with their surfboards under their one arm and their ego under the other. .
Daniel was very optimistic. And there was good reason to:

empty wave cordoama
Offshore, perfect wave breaking far far out. 

The big paddle.

Normally I am the guide and normally I am the one firing people up to go. Tell them where to go etc. This time my buddy took over my role. ”Dude, check those waves!!! When we make it to the back it will be epic’ Those were the last words before he made a run for it and beasted himself to the back of the lineup.

paddle in cordoama
I paddled out maybe 20 meters behind my friend. Duck dived at least a million times, got dragged halfway across the beach and had to give up. As a drowned cat I came back on the beach to see my friend catch his first wave:
drop in cordoama
Of course I could not let him get all the waves all by himself. Fired up from what I saw and my ego on the line I paddled out again. This time I made it. We shared an amazing session with the biggest waves of this summer for sure. We both got some good beatings, sizy drops and sweet long rides. Adrenaline pumping and we surfed until we just could not paddle anymore. 
big wave cordoama
crazy or epic? You decide 😉
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