Tonel Sagres mission
Sometimes your just super lucky. With a south african dude with some serious skills (and a very good sense of humor) the mission was on.
As always with a bigger swell on the forecast you never know exactly what to expect. All we know is that most of the time we get our hopes a little to much up and get disappointed. This is why I always try to temper my expectations…
My best bet was to go check Tonel. I had already had a few fun sessions here so I knew that the sand banks were good. If the swell would kick in and the wind stayed like it was (zero). We had really a chance for epic surf. (so far for the moderate expectations.)
We had been watching so much pipeline action from the volcom-pro that we had to get barreled. On my second wave I got a small head-dip and was already pretty stoked. We were really surfing a super shallow part of Tonel and ones you got pinched you really got pounded. A few times I really hit the bottom hard. (Thank god we were not really surfing bonzai pipeline.) Everything was still on one piece and I think i won some respect from the local boogieboarders. And than the wave of the day came.
I was in position, did not hesitate and got up. The whole thing just curled over me while I was not even croushing down. The one boogieboarder hooted and so did the rest in the line up. I got so barreled that I only remember from dreams from time to time.
Stoked as ever I came out. realized we surfed for way too long and went for coffee. (well I did the south african got beer :))